Cycling the Balkans: Gritty, Glorious Two-Wheel Routes That Define the Region
I was three hours into a headwind so violent it felt like the Adriatic Sea had decided to punch me in the chest, and my chain was singing a high-pitched song...
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Pedaling the Balkans: A Gonzo Guide to the Region's Most Brutal and Beautiful Bike Routes
I was three hours into the climb, lungs burning like I'd inhaled a chimney sweep's ash bucket, when the Bulgarian guy on the Vespa pulled up beside me. He di...